yesterday, i had a true 'holy shit' moment.. that was jacking up the girder just a hair to trim a shim beneath it, as there's a slight hump in the living room floor above it.
i brought my car jack into the crawlspace, set a 4x4 post between it and the girder, ensured it was perfectly plumb and very slowly and slightly lifted the beam.. just enough so the existing shim would slide out. i heard little creaks scattered around the floor joists.. and once the shim was removed, i thought, "holy shit, the living room is being held up by a car jack" hehe
so i trimmed about 1/8" from the shim and afterward the floor still has a slight hump. further examination revealed there is a floor joist that is slightly wider than the others right there.. about 1/8" wider. i can't correct that without removing the floor sheathing and planing/replacing the joist.. which is alot of work. so the hump is seemingly small, i'm going to see if i can get by with it. if it's a problem during flooring installation, i'll deal with it then (plane it, that is.)
the past few days i've been buying little things i need for the electrical and plumbing. i've nailed up the electrical boxes for switches. the boxes have little nubs on the side to space the front of the box for drywall. turns out the nubs are 3/8", and the drywall will be 1/2". this is fine by code, though i wonder if that 1/8" will make it difficult for the cover plate to seat around the outlet device (switch/receptacle) properly. i held each box spaced at about 1/2" against the stud while nailing, so we'll find out eventually..
i bought most of the supply stops for under the sinks & toilet from home depot, as they had nice looking & priced units meeting my connection needs. however they didn't have a dual outlet piece i want for the dishwasher to connect under the kitchen sink, so i found one at lowes, albeit with a slightly different shutoff knob. i got a matching single outlet for the cold supply under the sink. i'm still deciding if i'll bring those supplies through the wall or the floor under the kitchen sink, as that's the only spot against an exterior insulated wall. if i come through the floor i'll need to find a nice sleeve for each supply line between the floor and the stop.
i've purchased the water closet flanges but haven't drilled the holes through the floor yet. i spent some time looking at the options available, attempting to determine which connection configuration would be optimal in both performance and ease & practicality of installation. the drain lines are all 3", and i certainly didn't want any reduction of the inside of the pipe less than 3". there's a flange that connects inside of a 4" pipe, then you'd use a reducer below from 4 to 3 inch (the only drain reduction allowed by code is 4 to 3 at a water closet connection.)
however, i can't help thinking the point of reduction there is a possible, most likely point of constriction and clog. i'd rather if there's any possible point of constriction or clog that must be present, have it right at the flange for ease of cleaning/clearing by a plumber. i want to check if there's a flange that allows a 3" pipe to connect directly without any inside diameter reduction.. that is, the flange has a 3" hub on its underside. i believe i saw some previously but discounted them, as i didn't like having a reverse-direction hub on the closet connection.. thing is, the reverse-direction hub is going to occur all over the drain line.. so it's silly to try & avoid it at one of the easiest places in the drain system to access.
so i'll have to double check that flange! also, i'm using stainless-steel flanges, as stainless won't rust and metal won't crack so easily as all-pvc can when the toilet is tightened down, either during initial installation or in the future.
mm enough rambling for now, i could go on for hours.. no, really i could.. so many details..
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